Cochamo was a spectacular place. As I mentioned in my 1/1/13 post, we didn't get a chance to climb what we wanted, but still got a fair amount in given the uncooperative weather.
The Refugio was really special. It is a 4 hour hike from the nearest civilization down a muddy path through the temperate rainforest. It is stocked via horseback, and guests can order dinner, wine, and beer. It also has hot showers and flush toilets. The bunk room upstairs was comfortable, and the staff was very nice. It is run by an American climber named Daniel who put up a lot of the routes in the valley. Staying here instead of camping in the rain was a real treat!
Matthew and Andrew looking over topos in the Refugio
The Refugio has a lot of hand drawn topos of the climbs in the valley. Those, combined with Daniel's beta were very helpful.
Since we didn't have the weather window we needed to climb Bienvenidos a Mi Insomnio, a 22 pitch 5.11 on Cerro Trinidad, we decided to try No Hay Hoyes a 6 pitch 5.11 a little further up the Trinidad valley. The following video documents our 2 day, 1 night bid for No Hay Hoyes. It was a long approach with heavy packs over rough terrain. We dumped our stuff at the "Bivy Boulder" and tried to climb that same afternoon.
After getting rained off No Hay Hoyes, we retreated to the comfort of the Refugio. On most climbing trips bad weather means sitting in a little tent until it clears, but not in the Valle de Cochamo! Staying out of the rain in the Refugio was amazing, especially because it rained for the next two days. Space to dry wet gear, a dry bunk, and room to stretch the legs felt like staying at the Ritz compared to a wet tent (and they give an AAC discount!). Additionally there was an overhanging rock wall that stayed dry in the rain, the Pared Seca, so we got to do some climbing even when it was pouring.
Two additional highlights of our time around the Refugio were the people and a natural watersilde. We got to meet a lot of interesting individuals. There were two incredibly fun couples from Australia, and unsurprisingly, another Boulderite, Nate Mankovich. Reid and Logan were a couple from Reno and Alaska, respectively, on a South American road trip similar to that of Mountain of Storms or 180 Degrees South. They have a cool blog detailing their trip at americanrecess.com. There were also parties from other locations across North America, South America, and Europe traveling through.
The waterslide was pure fun. Thankfully the sun came out for a bit on our last day so we could enjoy it with warmer temps and sunlight. This video shows the fun of the natural waterslide, but also the great vibe of the people we met. I apologize in advance for the Aussie's speedos and language.
On New Years Eve, we hiked out of Cochamo. We were a bit disappointed to miss the Refugio NYE party, but we had to hit the road for Torres del Paine. In the small town of Cochamo, we stayed with a woman named Gladys. She was widowed at a very young age and now runs an hospedaje and a supermercado out of her relatively large house. She has a wonderful disposition and is well liked by everyone in the village. Gladys is also an amazing cook. For NYE she made us a delectable diner of local salmon and excellent side dishes. She sat with us all evening eating, drinking, and telling stories about her life in rural Chile, and at mid-night she popped open a bottle of champagne for us! It was a very memorable NYE and a highlight of the entire trip! (If traveling to Cochamo, you can look her up here http://www.cochamo.com/town/.)
Cerro Trinidad breaking through the clouds
It amazes me how pictures never do giant walls justice. Cerro Trinidad is nearly as big as El Cap!
The Trinidad Valley
The water in every stream is safe to drink!
Setting up camp at the Bivy Boulder with Reid, Hamish,and Katherine
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