Patagonia Gear Review

I'm finally back in Boulder and getting settled into the rhythm of life, which means I finally have time to write about my trip!  It was an incredible trip jam-packed with excitement, adventure, and incredible beauty.  I won't be able to capture the whole trip in one blog post, so I'm going to take my time and try to do it over the course of several posts.

An interesting place to start is a review of the gear I took on the trip.  I used and abused a lot of great products in some very harsh and unforgiving places, and overall, I was very happy with my selection of equipment.

Patagonia Hi-Loft Down Sweater Hoody

This is basically 1 step up from the regular Patagonia Down Sweater, but with larger baffles and more down, but still lightweight (about 1 lb.).  I had the old down sweater since the first year Patagonia started making it.  My old down was getting pretty beat up and ratty so I decided to replace it before heading to South America.  The old model, was great as a mid-layer in cold temps or outer layer in mildly cold temps, but it often left me wishing it were slightly warmer.  I'm glad I went with the warmer Hi-Loft as it is best suited as a lightweight outer layer for cold temps or a mid layer in frigid temps.  The Hi-Loft Hoody was a treat to wear on several occasions in Patagonia.  Most commonly, I wore in Patagonia it as an outer layer around camp and used it as a pillow at night (stuff it into a fleece mid-layer and you'll sleep like a rock).  I also used it as a mid-layer while climbing the Monzino route on Torre Norte in Torres del Paine.  It was cold, windy, and snowy but the Hi-Loft kept me plenty warm and dry underneath my Gore-Tex Pro Shell. 

My only complaint is that the cut of this jacket is a little strange.  You can almost tell by the picture above that the arms are cut a bit slim and the body has a lot of room.  So if you have tiny arms and a belly (not Patagonia's usual customer) it's tailored for you.  As a result, I had to bump up to a size XL to accommodate for my broad shoulders and guns.  At first, it felt like I had too much room in the body, but I've found that it fits well over a bunch of layers this way.

Other than climbing in Patagonia, I have found the Hi-Loft to be a great belay jacket.  I used it on the Naked Edge in December.  It is also a great layer to stuff into a backpack for backcountry skiing.  If I'm taking a break between backcountry laps, or stopping for a lunch break on a tour, I'll throw it on and stay toasty. 

Patagonia Super Alpine

 

 This is probably the the best shell I have ever owned.  It is lightweight and the 3 layer  Gore-Tex Pro Shell is breathable but bomb-proof.  From the cold, harsh, wind-swept ridge on Torre Norte to the pouring rain in the temperate rainforest of Cochamo, the Super Alpine continually impressed me.  This waterproof shell kept me warmer and dryer than any other shell I have owned.  When hiking hard in the rain, this jacket condensated less (better breathablility) and it also did a great job of keeping the rain out (something that has actually been a problem for me in the past).  I also fell in love with the cut of the jacket.  It is roomy where I needed it and slim where I didn't. The sleeves were long which is great for someone like me with long arms, especially when climbing and reaching high overhead.  The hood was nice too.  It cinched around the head wonderfully, which was great for wind, precipitation, and cold, and it fit OK over a climbing helmet.  I thought the rubber gaskets around the cuffs were a little gimmicky at first but I really liked them in practice.  They kept water out in more situations than just wet ice climbing.  The pleated pockets were nice too.  As the name suggests this technical shell was amazing for alpine conditions and ice climbing.  I've also used it for skiing and I think it would be good for winter camping.   The only real downside is the cost.  It retails for $600, which is steep.  I got mine at one of the semi-annual Patagonia sales for 60% off.  So, if you can't shell out the cash for full price, shop around and let the market come to you!  This jacket could work as a summer-time rain shell (backpackers), however, there are other lighter and more packable jackets than this (e.g. GoLite Trinity).

Arc'Teryx Theta SV Bibs

These bibs were great.  They are made of the same material as the Patagonia Super Alpine (Gore-Tex Pro Shell), and perform just as well.  The bibs were nice for a little added warmth and weather protection, especially when swimming through snow high on the Monzino route.  I commonly use these for backcountry skiing and winter camping in addition to alpine climbing and ice climbing. 

Black Diamond Hooped Bivy Sack

I love this bivy sack, because it is exactly what a bivy should be: Light, waterproof, green and not condensate.  (If you don't know, a bivy sack is a waterproof shell for your sleeping bag and pad.)  I didn't take a tent to Patagonia, just this little bivy sack, which was great for weight restrictions when flying (especially when flying domestically down there, as they are strict and will ding you with overweight fees).  More than that, it was great for traveling light and fast, which is usually the case when climbing. The last thing a climber wants is to haul extra gear around.  This bivy is also very waterproof, however, I normally try to find at least some kind of natural shelter to sleep under.  It can be a real pain getting in and out of this in the rain, and it also feels like a body-bag if too much waking time is spent in it. For this reason I will commonly bring a lightweight tarp with me if I am backpacking (or bring a tent instead).  However, when climbing in well traveled areas, there are commonly manicured bivy sites. In Cochamo, we never had to camp in the rain as we pitched our bivys under a massive leaning boulder known as "the bivy boulder."  Similarly, in Torres del Paine, there was the "bivy cave" at the base of the towers.  The cave helped tremendously with the howling Patagonian wind and the snow, but it dripped a lot when it rained! I woke up one night to water streaming off the roof above me.  The bivy kept me perfectly dry though.  

A few nights later I really put the bivy to the test.  We hiked out of Torres del Paine in the pouring rain and set up camp at a campground near the trailhead.  Thankfully my friend Andrew had a small 2 man tent, but there were 3 of us, so I spent the night in my bivy with my head in the vestibule of the tent.  It continued to pour all night and I was convinced I would be soaked by morning.  I could see water pooling everywhere on the top of the bivy, and to make matters worse, I had a down sleeping bag.  By morning, I was still bone dry!  I didn't even have that much condensation on the inside despite having the bivy zipped shut all night.  Black Diamond's Todd-Tex fabric is pretty cool.  Lastly, I love that this bivy is green, as it helps with the occasional illegal bivy.  Climb long enough and the illegal bivy becomes inevitable (especially in Yosemite).  A blaze orange bivy would be a bummer.

Arc'Teryx Bora 80

  What a great pack.  It's comfortable, well designed, and water resistant.  This pack is well suited for multi-day climbing trips and extended backpacking trips. I hiked for miles in the Valle de Cochamo and Torres del Paine and this pack allowed me to carry heavy loads of climbing and camping equipment comfortably and efficiently.  So when it was time to climb, I wasn't worn out from wrestling with a bad pack or sore.  If using this pack in a lot of rain, I would recommend a pack cover or dry-sacks, as it is only partially water resistant. 

Other Honorable Mentions:

•  Black Diamond
• C4 Camelots
• C3 Camelots
• Spot Headlamp
• Chaos Harness
•  Patagonia
• R1 Hoody
• Nano Puff Hoody
• Silkweight Boxers
• Smartwool
• Hiking Socks
• Merino T-Shirts
• Merino Boxer-briefs