Monday, March 26, 2012

Birthday on Sundance Buttress



I went out climbing last weekend with Anthony Riske for his birthday.  We climbed Mainliner (5.9) on Sundance Buttress at Lumpy Ridge, just outside of Estes Park, CO.  It was a great day with nice temps and lots of sunshine.  The route was stellar.  It was about 700 ft. (5 pitches) on good clean rock with fun climbing, great views, and comfy belay ledges.  It also made into Fred Beckey's 100 Favorite Climbs in North America, a new book put out by Patagonia.


Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Moab and Telluride

I just got back from an amazing road trip through Moab and Southwest Colorado with my beautiful wife Laura.  We camped in the desert surrounding Moab on Friday and Saturday nights which was beautiful.  We were put in touch ahead of time with some mutual friends, Eric, Darrel, and Dave who decided to share their campsite with us sight unseen.  They were tremendously hospitable and we became fast friends.

Laura ran the Moab Half Marathon on Saturday morning (Eric and Darrel ran too) and I managed to sneak in some mountain biking at Slickrock courtesy of Dave's guidance and Eric's bike.  After the half marathon, Laura was kind enough to play the roll of belay-slave for me that afternoon at Wall Street.  Sunday, we both climbed at Wall Street before hitting the road for Telluride in the rain.  Rain in Moab meant snow in the mountains: 11+ inches (Just when I thought ski season was over)! 

We poked around the charming little town of Telluride on Sunday evening while it was dumping and went to bed early at the Aspen Street Inn, in anticipation of powder turns the next day.  Telluride's skiing did not disappoint.  I had heard some intimidating stories about how steep the mountain is, but that's exactly what I want... Steep, deep, and gnarly.  It was probably my best day of in-bounds skiing ever.  Too tired to drive home after an incredible powder day at Colorado's best ski mountain we crashed again at the inn.  We  had a wonderful but long drive home today stopping at the Black Canyon on the way home.

Walking down "Park Avenue"

It was a little windy at our campsite


Delicate Arch in the background
Slickrock

Nice Job LC!

Didn't feel too bad about Laura belying me after the half since there was no approach!

"Another Roadside Distraction" 5.10b




Black Canyon
I'm hoping to edit and post some videos soon of the recent adventures, but in the midst of unpacking skiing, climbing, and camping equipment, and getting ready for a week of catch-up around the office it's unlikely to happen tonight.

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

Ski Season Over? (16 Months in a Row)

I hate to say it but I think the ski season might be over, here in CO.  A week of warm temps in the mountains and no end in sight means the snow is melting quickly.  At the very least it's time to put the powder skis away.  It even looks like spring ski-mountaineering season will be short to nonexistent this year due to coverage and a persistent weak layer of facets at the bottom of the snow pack.  According to the CAIC, the faceted layer is likely to create devastating wet slides through the spring.  Overall, it was a pretty disappointing season for the backcountry skier.  The season started 2 months late and ended a month early.  If you do the math that leaves February, which was actually decent (comparatively, my last powder day was in May last year!).  In February I managed to snag 2 great weekends at Vail and dropped East Vail several times.  I'm hoping to edit an East Vail video soon.

Without a spring ski season, it looks like my streak of skiing 16 months in a row will come to an end.  I was fortunate enough to ski Mt. Evans, Berthoud Pass, the Dead Dog Couloir on Gray's, and St. Mary's Glacier last Spring, Summer, and Fall.  In honor of my 16 month streak, I posted some footage from last June.


For updated backcountry conditions check out the East Vail Institute.  He's pretty good about his condition reports, and he's funny and witty which I enjoy.
http://eastvailinstitute.com/

Also check the CAIC:
http://avalanche.state.co.us/index.php


Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Video of Upslope Storm at Eldora

I finally managed to edit some footage of the epic upslope storm at Eldora.



Corrugation Corner Clip

Here is a video I managed to take on one of the belay ledges on Corrugation Corner.  It's right after the crux pitch (the 1st photo of Laura below) Sorry about the low sound levels. 


Monday, March 12, 2012

Survival Skiing and Winter Climbing in Tahoe

I just got back from a "ski" trip to Tahoe.  Unfortunately the legendary amounts of snow have failed to materialize this year.  "Survival skiing" was the name of the game with early November conditions in the first week of March!  Thankfully our huge group of 20+ provided wonderful company despite the conditions and the Tahoe scenery was stunning none the less.  After 2 days of survival skiing, a few hardy members of our group decided to brave the snowy approach and descent at Lover's Leap.  I was lucky enough to share a rope with my wonderful wife Laura, one of my all-time favorite climbing partners.  We climbed Corrugation Corner (5.7) in alpine-like conditions, but the climbing was spectacular.  Corrugation Corner is well deserving of the title "Best 5.7 in the Country."

Part of our great group AKA "The Fam"
Matthew Combs leading out on the first pitch of Corrugation Corner


Crux Pitch of Corrugation Corner

Me, leading just behind Jimmy who is cleaning for Matt.


Looking down from the top of Lover's Leap





Thursday, March 1, 2012

North Table Mountain With Riske and Co.

I had the pleasure of climbing outside yesterday with Anthony Riske.  It was a great day up at North Table Mountain in Golden.  It was a beautiful afternoon, although quite windy.  It was my first time to this crag and I was pleasantly surprised with the amount of climbing and the quality of the rock.  The photo is of Anthony on Drinking Wine with the Chinese (5.9)